Book review

Wild garlic, gooseberries . . .and me - Denis Cotter

It's not often I read books on relationships, although with my history maybe I should, but this is exactly what this book is all about.

The relationship between the chef and his ingredients portrays more passion to the reader than the best of Mills and Boon.  Trust and Respect are the foundations of the relationship with principle supplier Ultan Walsh.  

This is not just another cookbook, it is a beautifully crafted, witty collection of stories and recipes, providing valuable tips on how best to prepare and cook vegetables, including some unusual ones we may not have encountered..  The book is divided into four sections, at the end of each section is a collection of recipes which challenge the vegetables to shine in a completely new and innovative way.  Denis Cotter is a man who takes his vegetables very seriously, he showcases each vegetable sometimes in a leading role of it's own and sometimes in the supporting cast.   In the wild pickings section many of these ingredients can be gathered for free.  This book will prove a valuable addition to your culinary library and one you'll always want to keep close..

Verdict: Buy it now!!


 For me the stand out recipes amongst so many is the 'Black kale and aubergine spring rolls with ginger and tamarind dipping sauce'  which Cafe Paradiso have kindly given me permission to reproduce below.

If you would like a signed copy of this or any of the other excellent Cafe Paradiso cookbooks then visit http://www.cafeparadiso.ie/books

Black kale and aubergine spring rolls with ginger and tamarind dipping sauce

Serves 4

For the spring rolls

200g/7oz black kale (cavalo nero)

400g/14oz aubergine, finely diced

Olive oil

1tsp tomato puree

2tsp soy sauce

1 pinch caster sugar

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 fresh red chilli, halved seeds removed and thinly sliced

1tbs coriander seeds, ground

4 cloves ground

1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

8 spring roll sheets

Vegetable oil, for frying

For the tamarind sauce

3tbs tamarind pulp

300ml/10floz water

3tbs caster sugar

1tbs rice wine vinegar

3cm/1 1/4in piece fresh root ginger chopped

1 whole dried bird's eye chilli

   Preheat the oven to 180c/350f/gas mark 4.  Remove the stalks from the kale and discard them.  Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and drop in the kale.  When the water comes back to the boil, remove the kale, drain and cool it in a bowl of cold water, then squeeze out all the water.  Dry the kale fully with kitchen paper or a tea towel so that the spring rolls do not become soggy, then chop it into thin slivers about 3cm 1 1/4in) long.

   Toss the aubergine in olive oil and arrange in a single layer in an oven dish.  cover loosely with baking parchment and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, checking and tossing occasionally to ensure the pieces are fully cooked and lightly coloured.  mix the tomato puree, soy sauce and sugar together and stir them quickly into the cooked aubergine.

   While the aubergine is cooking. make the tamarind sauce.  Put the tamarind and water in a small saucepan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minute.  Press the liquid through a sieve and return it to the pan with the rest of the ingredients.  Simmer again for a further 10 minutes until the sauce is slightly thickened.  Sieve again to remove the ginger and chilli, and leave the sauce to cool.

   In a mixing bowl, combine the kale, aubergine, spring onions, chilli and spices to make the spring roll filling.  Lay a sheet of spring roll pastry on a worktop with one corner facing you.  A quarter of the way up, put       1 1/2 tablespoons of filling in a line (not to the edge) and brush the edges of the pastry with water.  Fold the bottom corner over the filling and roll the spring roll to just beyond the halfway point, keeping it tight and even as possible.  Fold in the sides and continue rolling.  Repeat with the rest of the pastry sheets and filling.

   In a wide frying pan, heat 1cm (1/2in) vegetable oil to a medium temperature, about 160c/325f.  Carefully slide in some of the spring rolls, making sure you don't crowd the pan.  Cook for a few minutes on each side until the spring rolls are crisp and coloured.  You can also cook them in a deep fat fryer but make sure the temperature is not too high or they may burst.  Remove the spring rolls and place them on kitchen paper to drain of any excess oil.

Serve the spring rolls with the tamarind sauce as a dip.